Observe your rabbits behaviour closely everyday and you will be able to tell when your rabbit is not well. The earlier you spot any illness signs the better as rabbits are prey animals and will hide their illnesses. Always check they are eating their food and hay everyday. Always seek advice from your vet immediately if you are unsure what to do. Carrying out regular health checks will also keep your rabbit happy and healthy.
In this section…
- Signs something is seriously wrong
- Other signs all is not well
- Common illnesses and what to do
- Syringe feeding
- MOT health check
- Importance of spaying/neutering
- About your vet
- Keeping bunny cool in summer
- Keeping bunny warm in winter
- Your rabbit is limp, floppy and cold
- Difficulty breathing
- Flystrike – maggots visible on back end
- Severe diarrhoea
- Grinding teeth loudly
- Loss of weight.
See your vet immediately if your rabbit has any of the above symptoms.
- Difference in behaviour
- Doesn’t come to greet you
- Not interested in food
- Hunched up
- Hiding/sitting in a corner
- Not drinking/Drinking too much
- Sitting in same place all day
- Laying down and getting up again quickly
- No droppings in tray
- Lets you pick them up when usually they don’t
- Watery/creamy eyes
- Wet nose/discharge/sneezing.
It is extremely important in the next few hours to monitor your rabbit closely.
When to seek advice from your vet depends on you and your expertise & also down to how well you know your rabbit and your rabbits health history.
If you are unsure what to do contact your vet asap or if it has been longer than 24 hours and there has been no improvement, then always seek advice from your vet.
Loss of appetite
If they are not eating then you will need to try and encourage them to feed. Parsley is a favourite food to encourage a sick rabbit to eat again. Wave some parsley or cabbage or hay gently in front of them and keep doing it, follow them when they turn away also. They will eventually get a little irritated and mad with you and go to bite at what you are waving at them and this is when they may start eating it. Keep trying and just watch your fingers!
Look for signs that may help you figure out what the problem could be. The first 24 hours are crucial as their stomach will shut down and there is the chance that they could go into shock quite quickly. If they have not eaten anything for a good few hours then you may need to think about syringe feeding them something, but keep it to a minimum until you are certain there is no blockage (check if there are any droppings. If there aren’t any then its likely they may have a blockage).
See syringe feeding, below.
- No droppings or diarrhoea
- Hunched up
- Hiding in a corner
- Grating teeth
- Not eating or drinking.
You will need to get your rabbit to your vet asap if you suspect they are showing signs of GI Stasis.
More on GI Stasis and how to treat:
- GI Stasis is common in rabbits and can be deadly
- It is a condition and not an illness and is always secondary to some other issue. Diets high in starch and low in fibre can be the cause too
- The rabbits gut will slow down and eventually stop working completely. This is when they will get dehydrated and go into shock and it can happen very quickly.
- If your rabbit is still producing droppings and you are certain they do not have a blockage (your vet can confirm this) You can syringe feed them some mashed up pellets. Fibreplex and Pro c probiotic are also good to give them.
- Always syringe feed every 2 to 3 hours and through the night too if your rabbit is not eating at all and you know there is no blockage.
Your vet should:
- Palpate her/conscious xray to make sure no blockages.
- Double check back teeth for spikes/conscious rasp.
- May give an injection to get their stomach moving and maybe a painkiller too.
GI Stasis tips
- As soon as you see a difference in behaviour or droppings start using fibreplex.
- Beware excess cardboard/paper eating, this all contributes towards GI Stasis
- Once you know there is no blockage you can also syringe feed vegetable based baby food or make your own vegetable soup to help your bunny through stasis
- Dandelions, parsley and freshly picked grass help stimulate feeding
- Syringe feed Infacol – 1ml per hour for first 3 hours and then 1ml every 3–8 hours after.
- Mix a little herbal charcoal or slippery Elm into water and syringe feed
- Massage their stomachs. Keep your bunny on the floor, facing you and place your hand underneath, place the other hand behind them to support them and then gently massage their belly by moving your hand forward and backwards quite quickly.
- Lift their back end up gently and slowly so their back legs stretch out full length. Make sure their head and back are supported. This helps relieve gas and helps get the stomach moving.
- Make them run about a bit too as this helps get the stomach working.
- Add Pro c probiotic in their water
- Willow leaves are a good idea to feed your rabbit as they contain asprin
- Bramble leaves and dandelions & plantain help settle stomachs
- Profibre pellets are excellent for their digestive system and if they won’t eat them, try mixing in warm water to reduce to a paste and syringe feed it instead. You can add some of their normal pellets also. Do not use boiling water as it will reduce its nutrient content. Use warm water and allow to cool.
- Listen for gurgling sounds in the stomach as this is a good sign the stomach is working.
- If your experienced in looking after rabbits – don’t make more trips to the vet than necessary when your rabbit is suffering from GI Stasis as the stress level can slow the recovery. But do contact your vet throughout to keep them updated on progress etc. Whenever possible give them the medications whilst at home as there they will feel calm and safe.
Remember: Recovery from GI Stasis is gradual. It may be days or weeks before droppings are back to normal again.
Bloat or gas
Symptoms to look out for:
- Are they laying down and getting up again quickly.
- Are they trying to stretch out a lot.
- Have they stopped pooping?
- Does their stomach feel larger than normal and does it feel quite hard.
If yes to any of the above:
- Give your rabbit 1ml of Infacol per hour for first 3 hours and then 1ml every 3 – 8 hours after. (Infacol will help break a blockage down) Pineapple juice also helps with this, but it needs to be pure pineapple juice and to put a few drops in water is best as it is very sugary and can upset the lining of the gut.
- Massage their belly. Keep your bunny on the floor, facing you and place your hand underneath, place the other hand behind them to support them and then gently massage their belly by moving your hand forward and backwards quite quickly. You could even use something like a electric toothbrush or gentle hand held massager wrapped in a tea towel. Sit them on top of this and keep them reassured as they will naturally wonder what it is at first.
- Encourage them to run about to get their stomach moving.
Keep monitoring the situation and if there is no change then seek advice from your vet. If your rabbit is grinding their teeth loudly they are in pain so see a vet asap.
Symptoms to look out for:
- Are they interested in the food but not actually eating it?
- Are they trying to eat it and opening their mouth a bit funny when chewing?
- Are they putting a paw up to their mouth?
- Look for wet fur at the side of their mouth, like they have been dribbling.
- Are they all of a sudden gnawing at the furniture, carpet or something in their accommodation that they don’t usually bother with?
If your rabbit has any of the symptoms above or if you are unsure in anyway you will need to get them to a vet asap. It is likely your rabbit will need to be admitted for a dental at your vets. But in the meantime you could grate some vegetables for them.
If they are not eating but are producing droppings you could syringe feed them some mashed up pellets. Just be gentle with them as their mouths may be very sore.
See syringe feeding, below.
Day of dental
They will spend the day at your vets. Take a little pack lunch of your rabbits favourite foods/hay to help your vets encourage your rabbit to eat when they come round from the anaesthetic.
Never starve your rabbit before their dental and always make sure they have eaten something the night before and the morning of the dental.
Mega colon or Cowpile syndrome or Mucoid enteritis
This is a condition that causes blockages.
- Picking at food
- Soft large droppings with visible mucus.
- If your rabbit is still producing droppings and you are certain they do not have a blockage (your vet can confirm this) Syringe feed mashed up Pro fibre pellets along with normal pellets
- Massage their stomachs regularly
- Feed fibreplex for 4-5 days.
- Raspberry & bramble leaves and Apple twigs/leaves and dandelions all help
- Dried herbs such as plantain & dandelion also help. See Food – Hay & dried herbs
- Herbal slippery Elm or/and charcoal sprinkled into water and syringe fed also help.
- Avoid feeding cabbage and broccoli
- Encourage them to run about
- Provide plenty of hay and encourage them to eat as much as possible
This is a worm/parasite that can cause great health problems to your rabbit.
- Head tilt
- Loss of litter training
- Increased drinking/urinating.
Treatment & prevention:
- Panacur 2 to 4 times a year. See Health products – Medicines
- Always give a treatment when mixing with other rabbits.
- Good hygiene helps to prevent this.
- A 9 day treatment is for prevention with rabbits not showing any symptoms. If your rabbit is showing symptoms of EC then you can treat them with panacur for a period of 28 days or even up to 6 weeks. 28 days is how long the parasite stays in the environment, and 6 weeks to add extra protection to rid the parasite completely from the environment.
Abscesses are lumps filled with pus and are usually caused by a bacterial infection. They are not always visible to us as they can sit under the skin too. If left, the abscess may burst and if it gets into the blood stream of your rabbit this can prove to be fatal.
- Constantly itching or scratching at a certain area
- Loss of appetite
- Loss of weight.
If you think your rabbit may have an abscess, seek advice from your vet asap. The earlier they are treated the better.
Always check for abscesses when carrying out a health check on your rabbit. Feel all over their body, around the bottom of the ears and head and along the jaw line too. The abscesses will feel quite firm and are usually about the size of a small grape, but the sizes can vary. Look for parts of the skin that look redder and feel hotter than the rest of the body.
Flystrike is something every rabbit owner should dread and work hard at avoiding. Flystrike is when flies will lay their eggs on the soiled back end of a rabbit. The eggs then hatch into maggots and the maggots will slowly eat your rabbit alive.
Check, check and check again your rabbits behind especially through the summer months, but all year round too. People think this can only happen when the weather is warm, but it can happen in colder weather too.
- Make sure your rabbits bottom is always clean and that includes the scent glands too. Flies can lay the eggs deep into folds of skin, so always check very thoroughly.
- There are quite a few sprays to help prevent this, but its better to purchase the stronger ones from your vet than buy ones available from pet shops. Speak to your vet for more information on the sprays available and how to use them.
- Lavender, rosemary and citronella smells placed around or near their accommodation will help deter flies.
Never delay in getting your rabbit to a vet if you do suspect flystrike.
Rabbits can suffer from a hairball in their stomach and if they are not able to pass it, then it can lead to a blockage and this could be fatal. Rabbits cannot vomit, so they cannot pass hairballs like cats can.
- A change in eating habits
- Weight loss
- Smaller droppings than usual
- Teeth grinding
- Staying hunched up in the corner of their accommodation.
If you think your rabbit is suffering from a hairball then seek advice from your vet.
In the meantime you can:
- Massage your rabbits stomach
- Encourage them to run around to help get their stomach moving
- If they are not eating, syringe feed a tiny amount of food (mashed up pellets) & water to them, but only a tiny amount until your vet confirms if there is a blockage or not.
- Give your rabbit 1ml of Infacol per hour for first 3 hours and then 1ml every 3 – 8 hours after. Infacol will help break a blockage down. Papaya can also help with breaking down hairballs.
- During moulting season you can help your rabbit by feeding them small bits of fresh or dried Papaya. These help break up hairballs.
- Also help your rabbit by grooming them regularly, especially when moulting.
- Always make sure your rabbit is drinking water as dehydration adds to the build up of hair in the stomach.
- A build up of hair in the stomach may suggest your rabbit is not getting enough fibre in their diets (so increase their hay amounts) It could also mean they have a problem with their stomach and digestion.
Excessive cecals (cecotropes)
Present with bunnies that have sensitive stomachs. Bunnies produce two types of droppings: Familiar droppings which are round and dry. Cecotropes which are like a small bunch of grapes and your rabbit should eat these to get their vitamins. If you see these droppings laying around then this your rabbit is producing excessive cecals.
- Feed limited veg like parsley/spring greens and occasional carrot as a treat along with Science selective pellets
- Supply lots of meadow hay & sprinkle in a little dried plantain or dandelions daily too
- At night add a scoop of Pro fibre pellets to the science selective pellets
- Keep a diary each day to work out what suits them best
- Takes time to see a difference days sometimes months
- Rich hays like readigrass and alfalfa & grass hays can contribute to the problem.
- Check their bottoms are clean every day & take extra precautions against flystrike
When to syringe feed and what to feed?
- If your rabbit is not eating at all but they are still producing droppings and you are certain they do not have a blockage (your vet can confirm this) you do need to start syringe feeding them to help stop the stomach from shutting down.
- See Medicine cabinet at home (below) for medications like Pro C probiotic and fibreplex etc that are extremely helpful to have to hand in situations like this.
- Don’t just give them medications. Mash some of their pellets up and add this also to things like critical care mixtures. It’s more palatable to them and you may find they will take it more willingly. Add some hot water (not boiling) to the pellets and mash them so it resembles baby food. You may need to add more water as you go as the pellets will soak it up and make the mixture thick. Gently poke a fork prong into the top of the syringe to widen it and this will help the mixture go into the syringe easier.
- Make a soup of vegetables. Boil 2 or 3 vegetables (chopped into small pieces) like carrot, cabbage & celery in a little water for about 10 mins. Liquidise the vegetables with the water they cooked in also and cool and then syringe feed to your rabbit. This is so much more palatable than the medications and will help them that little bit more to get their appetite back.
- Always syringe feed every 2 to 3 hours and through the night too if your rabbit is not eating at all and you know there is no blockage (check if there are any droppings. If there aren’t any then its likely they may have a blockage).
Tips on how to syringe feed
- Carry out in an unfamiliar place. Your rabbit won’t feel as confident and will be unlikely to struggle as much.
- Never feed when they are laid backwards like a baby. Always feed with them upright.
- One way to feed them is for you to kneel on the floor and place your rabbit between your legs with his back end nearest to you. Bend forwards and use your other hand to secure them at the front to avoid them running forwards.
- You can wrap your rabbit in a towel to keep them from struggling whilst you do this. Wrap the towel diagonally from their shoulder to their hip.
- If your not very flexible then you can place your rabbit on a table/counter. Lean towards/over them to secure and place your free arm around their body and your hand is placed to the front on their chest. Again you can wrap them in a towel to stop them struggling.
- Make sure they can’t jump off the table/counter and injure themselves. Place a chair nearby for them to jump on if you think they will jump. Or better still have a friend/partner help you out.
- Try syringe feeding them on your lap or place them on a chair and kneel down to them.
- Always place the syringe in the side of the mouth. Into the cheek and at a slight angle. Never from the front and straight down the throat.
- Feed slowly to allow time to swallow. They may keep the food/liquid in their mouth longer than usual. If you then feed them to quickly there is a chance it could end up in their lungs.
- If they tend to spit food/liquid out the minute you let them go or as soon as your not looking – keep hold of them longer and place a finger under their chin gently and tickle to encourage them to swallow. Never use force.
Medicine cabinet at home
The following items are very helpful to have to hand at home for when your rabbit is not well.
- Pro fibre – High fibre pellet to encourage normal digestion – can be used daily.
- Pro C probiotic – Pro biotic to help restore natural gut movement. This formula can be used daily.
- Avi pro plus – Same as Pro C probiotic, but much stronger and to be used only in times of stress or illness and when rabbits are on antibiotics also
- Critical care sachets – For when your rabbit is not eating due to illness or surgery. Mix with water and syringe feed.
- Supreme recovery – A food to syringe feed to your rabbit when they are sick or recovering from surgery.
- Panacur – Aid to control E.C and treatment is 9 days. Syringe fed. Should be carried out 2–4 times a year
- Fibreplex – Helps restore movement to stomach for when rabbits show little or no appetite.
- Bio Lapis – A Pre & Probiotic to help rehydrate rabbits
- Infacol – To help with bloat/gas.
- Papaya – To help breakdown hairballs
- Herbal Slippery elm & Charcoal – help rabbits with digestive problems. Add a little powder to water and syringe feed.
- Some rabbits are more comfortable being examined on the floor
- Wrap a towel around them if you need to and wrap it diagonally from the shoulder to the hip.
- Make sure you have not covered their face and keep checking this throughout the health check
- If your rabbit gets stressed – sing a little song to them or rub their noses or ears, generally make a fuss and calm them down before you continue
Regular health checks
Carry out health checks on your rabbit every other day in the summer and once a week in the winter. By carrying out the health check in a room your rabbit is not familiar with will help if your rabbit is always struggling to get away.
It all depends on how well behaved your rabbit is and how confident you are at handling your rabbit as to the best way to groom or health check your bunny. Kneeling on the floor with your bunny between your legs is a good way. Or if you are sitting down, hold them close to you whilst on your lap and gently start to turn them backwards so there head is cradled into your left arm (if your right handed). Always keep them well supported with your right arm supporting the whole back when moving them. Once secure you can check and groom them underneath and also move their legs about with your left hand to ensure you are checking everywhere, but always be very gentle – this does take practise. Also if your rabbit struggles a lot this is probably not the best way as you will be off the floor and there is a chance your rabbit could fall.
Wrap your rabbit’s body in a towel first to help with the rabbits that are likely to struggle.
- Check nose is clean and dry
- Eyes clean and bright
- Ears clean and dry
- Skin/fur is even and shiny
- Tail & bottom is clean and dry.
More thorough health check
- Trim their nails if they are longer than their fur.
- Trim any hair around their rear end if it is quite long. This will help keep them cleaner, but be extremely careful. Take them to a vet and a nurse can help you with this if you are not confident to do yourself.
- Check for any bumps that you have not felt before. Brush out any matted fur, especially on the feet. Never cut away matted fur as there is a good chance you could cut their skin too
- If you have a long haired rabbit check their mouth area for matted fur, especially if they drink out of a bowl.
You may feel guilty putting your rabbit through this and worry about losing their trust. This is very common in rabbit owners, but it is very important to still carry out regular health checks as you will feel much worse if your rabbit becomes sick from something you could of easily spotted or prevented happening.
Always remember to praise your rabbit after you have completed your health check and give them a small bit of carrot or parsley as a treat. They will soon forgive you and you as a rabbit owner will feel much better knowing you are keeping them in tip top condition.
Cleaning their bottoms
Never plunge into water as they could quickly die of shock. Always use damp cotton wool or tissues or sensitive baby wipes and clean the effected area only. Trimming long hair around this area helps to keep it clean. Vaseline & sudocrem help with preventing urine stained skin becoming inflamed and infected.
You also need to clean their scent glands. To do this gently use a damp cotton bud to effectively clean out the glands.
Handy health check items to have
- Mite spot on
- Wipes (non perfumed)
- Curved scissors
- Metal comb
- Claw clippers
- Powder to stop bleeding claws
- Kitchen roll
- Cotton buds
Myxomatosis and VHD are now combined into one injection so you only need to go once a year.
Vaccinations can be bought forward. You don’t have to wait the full year. If there are lots of reports of Myxi near you or VHD then its a good idea to go before the year is up.
Neutering/Spaying has lots of health and behavioural benefits & is very important for the following reasons:
- Stops unwanted litters
- Rabbits can get pregnant again 1 hour after giving birth
- Around 4 months old they reach sexual maturity & you may see a difference in behaviour.
- They can become aggressive
- After being neutered or spayed they become calmer & happier and healthier
- Live longer
- 10–12 weeks is the age they look at spaying/neutering, but some may want to wait a bit longer.
- Uncastrated rabbits will fight & cause stress to other rabbits if kept in groups/pairs
- Stop spraying urine
- Makes litter training easier
- Reduces aggression.
A good Vet should always check your rabbits heart rate, teeth, ears, eyes, bottom area, stomach and weight on every visit. With a sick rabbit, your vet will ask you questions like:
- When did they last eat?
- When did they last poop/ What did it look like?
- What are the symptoms that have alerted you?
- What difference in behaviour have you seen?
- Fill plastic bottles like 2 litre pop bottles with water and freeze. Place in a cotton pillow case and place in your rabbits enclosure. You can keep the pillow case in the freezer too. You can stretch out the remaining part of the pillow case for them to lay on. Spray a little water on the cotton to make it even cooler.
- If possible add a fan to the enclosure, but make sure the wires are out of reach and that the fan is also out of your rabbits reach. Do not aim a fan directly on your rabbit constantly. Point it in a direction that your rabbit can have a choice of laying in the breeze or move away from the breeze
- Buy a plant water spray bottle and set to ‘Mist’ spray. Gently spray the mist from a height over your rabbit. Allow them to move away if they don’t like it. Never soak your rabbit and never spray close up or with is set to jet spray. Lay concrete slabs in the enclosure or large floor tiles so they have something cool to stretch out on.
- Wet a kitchen roll tissue with cold water, squeeze out any excess water and then wipe this gently over your rabbits ears. Do this often during the hot weather
- If you have a house bunny, keep curtains pulled if the sun hits the window to their room. This will keep the temperature down. Never keep a rabbit in a conservatory in the summer
- If your outside bunnies enclosure doesn’t escape the sunlight for long periods, make sure they have a shaded area to retreat too. If you have a nest box, you can raise it off the ground by placing securely on slabs or blocks and they can then lay underneath it.
- Place car reflector sunscreens on top of enclosure roofs.
- Place patio umbrellas in front of enclosures to keep the sun off.
- Never ever plunge a rabbit into cold water to cool down.
Rabbits need sunlight to get their source of vitamin D. This helps to keep their bones healthy. Always makes sure in the summer months your rabbit is not stuck in direct sunlight. They should always have a shaded area to retreat to when the have had enough sun.
- Always provide nice snug places for them to retreat too. Like a nest box or pet carriers are a good idea to place into their accommodation through winter.
- Place cardboard around the inside of their sleeping areas or next boxes to help insulate. Provide a cardboard box in their sleeping area for them to snuggle up in.
- Pack their accommodation with generous amounts of straw and hay.
- Straw is warmer than hay, but never provide straw only. Always provide hay too for feeding
- Use a sheet of bubble wrap or clear plastic such as a market stall cover to place in front of the accommodation to keep out cold winds and rain.
- If you cover the front of the accommodation with blankets or other heavy covers, make sure you leave a air pocket.
- If their enclosure has lots of concrete slabs. Place some grass mats down to cover the cold concrete.
- Always provide dry straw/hay everyday as old bedding will get damp quickly.
- Bricks heated slowly on a low heat in the oven and then placed in a pillow case and hidden amongst their hay is another way to provide heat. Please note: Make sure you don’t heat the brick up so its too hot. If you can’t hold it then its too hot and too dangerous to your rabbit.
- Provide snugglesafes when its really cold and place amongst the straw/hay in their sleeping areas.